After returning home, I researched SeaWorld and its treatment of the animals within its many parks. I was truly shocked at what I found. Please go read the following articles originally published in Outside Magazine, both written by Tim Zimmerman: “The Killer in the Pool” and “Blood in the Water.” He’s also involved in a new documentary still making the independent film festival circuits, Blackfish. I can’t wait to see it. Reminiscent of The Cove, Blackfish is already affecting SeaWorld’s IPO and has SeaWorld’s PR machine running overtime. Here’s the trailer for Blackfish:

That said, here’s documentation of my experience at SeaWorld.

At 10:30AM, Lucas swam with the dolphins. I’m fairly certain it was the highlight of his year. I don’t believe that any of these trainers have any malicious intent working with dolphins; it’s clear that they love them. The dolphins also seem very engaged while interacting with people. However, all the dolphins are covered in scars and scrapes, even the ones that were captive born.

There were two different groups in the pools, and each group met several different dolphins. The SeaWorld trainer for Luke’s group was decidedly more educational in her approach to the encounter. She talked about the history of each animal, their diet, anatomy, and individual personality. The other trainer had the animals go through a barrage of interactive tricks. At one point, one of the dolphins decided to stop following any directions from staff and freely swam around the pool, circling the two groups before finally being brought back under control by another trainer. That dolphin was then asked to leave the pool.

The next interactive exhibit lined up was the Penguin Encounter. This experience felt like the most sincere and authentic part of the park. I mean, you can’t really train penguins to do silly shit, can you? The caretakers were visibly involved in these birds’ lives. In fact, it felt more like a zoo than a park. This was the only educational experience I had at the park. We had the opportunity to meet a four month old gentoo penguin who was very sociable and expressive. We then visited the penguin enclosure, a behind-the-scenes mini-tour. The penguins were obviously well cared for and fed, though  the space felt cramped.

A view from the penguin exhibit on the other side of the glass.

The dolphin and whale shows followed, leaving a terrible and lasting impression. As a child, I visited Marineland once, in Ontario, CA. I remember the Killer Whale show, and I remember at least learning about the whales as they performed– the trainers wore headsets and talked all the way through the show. Here’s a vintage 1980s commercial for the park. The jingle will stick in your head for days:

The spectacle that SeaWorld produces now is somewhere between Cirque Du Soleil, bad community theater, and Disney princess narratives. The was absolutely nothing redeeming about the show. I felt sad and somewhat confused after it was over.

As confused and sad as I felt after leaving the alternate universe of the dolphin show, I felt heartsick after watching the orcas. Although this show, entitled “One Ocean” tried to outline SeaWorld’s conservation efforts for wild whales and captive breeding programs for park whales, I immediately recognized it for what it was: propagandist drivel. The one male whale in the tank exhibited the classic collapsed dorsal fin, found almost exclusively in captive orcas. These whales perform twice daily in tiny pools.

After reading the two articles I listed above, I learned the anxious and somewhat psychotic activities these whales show in captivity: teeth grating on underwater gates resulting in exposed nerves, floating and sinking repeatedly in boredom, aggressive behavior toward other whales, and rapid, frustrated circle swimming around the perimeter of their tanks. In the wild, Orcas travel several hundred miles each week in search of food.

In closing, I encourage you to visit Voice Of The Orcas, a portal into the anti-captivity movement. We’ve clearly learned all we can from keeping orcas captive. It’s time to study them in the wild. Let’s not propagate the subjugation of these intelligent creatures for capitalistic gain and simplistic entertainment.

Even though I still feel somewhat conflicted about zoos, I appreciate their general conservation efforts and educational work for endangered animals. I had wanted to visit the San Diego Zoo for years so it seemed a fitting birthday experience. Plus, it’s the subject of one of my favorite songs by The Sixths, sung by Barbara Manning. I recommend listening along as you peruse the photographs (taken with my brand new camera!). The weather was beautiful and the animals were out and active which made for a very memorable birthday experience.

Birds of Paradise were plentiful. I love these so much… perhaps my second favorite flower.

Ducks roamed freely throughout the zoo. Luke made friends with this one by offering a french fry as it perched on the fabric canopy above us.

Flamingos!

Meerkat!

This is a Chinese Leopard named Java.

Koala, sittin’ in a tree.

11 month old Jaguar cub eatin’ some foods.

Snoozing polar bear!

The gorillas were extremely active… they were very fascinating to watch.

Aw, Panda.

 A nesting Secretary bird. So beautiful.

This hippo was one of my favorite creatures I saw.

Peacock and tourists. Hilarious.

The road out to the spit which no longer supports cars– a large section of the road appears to have been washed away.

We found this owl sitting quietly on a log, trying to get some shut-eye. Another photographer with a ten thousand dollar lens was camped out already, “sitting” on the owl. Soon after we found the bird, more people showed up and the owl, disturbed from slumber, spread its giant wings and flapped away to another part of the spit. I really wish I had a better lens! SO AMAZING. I think I had to remind myself to breathe after it flew away.

After the owl flew away and the other would-be wildlife photogs left, Sarah and I scrambled to the log where the owl had been perched and discovered a treasure! A SNOWY OWL PELLET!!! Apparently these guys live on the sand pipers that live on the spit. I carefully bagged the pellet for dissection later. I felt like I was in 5th grade.

We had passed this owl several hours earlier in the day but the sun was so bright and directly in our eyes, I just couldn’t get a good shot. Plus, there was at least half a dozen people crowding the owl. On our way back, we decided to stop again to see if the owl was still there. She was! We were able to get a much better view of her, with less people trampling about.

She was clearly asleep but still alert, her head continually turning in circles, listening to the snaps of a gazillion shutters. We watched her for nearly 20 minutes. At one point, she fluffed her feathers, and both Sarah and I let out a collective “Oooooooooh!” Ha!

Did I mention how magical this was? Apparently National Geographic had been out earlier in the week for a photo shoot, too.

After this lady, we didn’t see any other owls. We did, however, see many species of rare Washington Beach Walkers, which were in some respect more entertaining than the owls.

This dude and his dog were making a fire.

This gull was just trying to crack open a clam.

This guy’s dog knew he was a chick magnet.

First stop, of course, was the Astor Column in Astoria since Lucas had never been there. It’s still one of my favorite spots in the Pacific Northwest, over ten years since I first climbed its steps.

We walked around town for a while before returning to the lodge for The Big Surprise.

We stayed in a cute 1940s cabin, while other friends stayed in adorable vintage travel trailers. So cute! I want one!

Surprise from the balcony. Sarah has a plethora of rad photos on her blog from the party. Check them out!

Arrington and China found a seal skull and spinal column on the beach near the lodge. Of course, it became a center piece. Gross/ fascinating. Also, totally illegal to keep have sea mammal remains in your possession, we later discovered.

Sea View! The ocean was angry. The rain was cold. The beach, however, is super sandy! Already dreaming of summer…

Lucas being a good sport in the rain.

Canon Beach. I think we stayed a total of five minutes on the beach. The rain was pelting us sideways and sand was blasting us in the face. Just enough time for a photo.

On the way back up the coats, we stopped at a tourist trap to feed some captive born seals at a leaky, dingy “aquarium.” I felt bad for the seals but man, they are gluttons for fish and I’m absolutely sure they’re fed well.